// B O S N I A & HERZEGOVINA
When I told people I was going to Bosnia and Herzegovina, I got one of two reactions.
Either they’d look worried and say something like: “But is it safe? ... Will you tell your mum before or after you go?”
Or they would look at me surprised as if I’d just said the weirdest thing ever, and ask: “But why? What’s in Bosnia?”
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Let me explain.
the hidden secrets of
beautiful BOSNIA
Everything you’ve ever heard or thought about Bosnia & Herzegovina, forget it. Unless of course your thoughts were something along the lines of it being this diversified culture soup filled with incredible history, humble people and the most delicious food croutons … because all of this is so true. It is amazing. If you like quaint fairy tale towns and azure blue water, this post is for you.
I tend to avoid telling people about these kinds of places in the fear that they’ll become the next ‘big’ and tourist laden thing (like Iceland) but Mostar is too amazing to not share and I encourage everyone to visit at least once in their lifetime. I guarantee that is all it will take for you to fall in love with it or your money back. Actually, scratch the last bit. I’ve just spent all my cash on flights to Canada and can’t offer you any money. What I can offer you is some tips and tricks on what to do if you ever find yourself lucky enough to be in Mostar.
*tip: the local currency is Bosnia and Herzegovina is convertible mark (KM) and is fixed to the EUR. 1 EUR = 1,955 KM and it is usual to calculate the exchange rate by 1:2. EUR which is accepted almost everywhere. Local traders use this calculation too so I would suggest it is more profitable to pay in EUR instead of buying KMs upon arrival if you are only staying for a day or weekend. In saying that, I found that supermarkets didn’t accept EUR and I did need some KM at times (and you might too unless you really don’t plan on staying for too long and don’t think you’ll require odd bits you pick up from a supermarket).
D A Y 1
Arrive at Mostar airport
I caught a horrifically early and eyelid anguishing flight from Dusseldorf to Mostar at the beginning of summer 2019. I spent a few days in Dusseldorf, checking out this chic niche and grooving to bands I mispronounced and later just renamed because it was easier. It’s pretty simple getting to Bosnia from most places... although I have heard it’s more popular to fly direct to Sarajevo. You could then just catch a bus or train from Sarajevo to Mostar. Flixbus seems really popular in Europe and the Balkans and the prices are extremely kind to the backpacker pocket. Most coaches have air conditioning, WiFi and a toilet on board and you can just recline back and enjoy the views and appreciate the fact that you don’t have to drive along risky roads with organ donor motorcyclists weaving way too close to the wheels and wingmirrors of vehicles. However, from Mostar airport, you have two options: you can either walk or you can catch a taxi. Walking takes about an hour but involves some sketchy roadside trekking and a taxi will probably set you back like ten marks (KM) or roughly five euro (€).
We stayed at a place called Hostel Balkaneros near the old town. Three beds in a four bed dorm set us back around €9 each/night and included breakfast, linen and free WiFi. The staff are so friendly and welcoming and are happy to help with any questions, queries or concerns you have bubbling away in your mind cauldron. The owner of the hostel runs a daily tour around the highlight spots of Mostar and it’s surrounding areas and I 110% recommend it. I’ll give you the low down on this trip a little later. For now, I’ll pop the link for their website here so you can give their site a scroll if you’re looking for accommodation in Mostar.
What was meant to be a quick pit stop en route to Croatia where I picked up the part of my soul that’s been missing for the last two years (aka my best friend from Australia) revealed itself to be a true treasure… and maybe even the best impromptu escapade I’ve been on this year. I know for sure that Bosnia has definitely found a spot in my memory box and I can’t wait to come back to explore and learn some more about this colourful country in my future travels.
So now I’ve done with what might have been the messiest introduction since lady gaga’s entrance into the 2011 grammy’s in an egg (yep, it actually happened), I guess I’ll start telling you just how we got hooked during our short Bosnian taste tester.
Mostar
Surrounded by mountains and straddling the jade green Neretva river, Mostar is extraordinarily photogenic. Like 'stop at every corner and take a photo that probably looks just like the 25828 you already took' kinda photogenic. It's maze-like streets also make it so easy to lose yourself in the Old Town. But, as quick as it is to get lost is as quick as it is that you seem to find yourself and your accommodation when you recognise something familiar or stumble across the famous Stari Most. You just have to remember if you’re staying on the right or left of the bridge for this trick to work!
Most people who think of Mostar then think of the Stari Most, the famous Old Bridge, bombed and demolished in 1993 during the war in Bosnia. The town, in fact, takes its name from the word Most which in all Slav languages means bridge. But few know that the bridge in question is situated in the heart of the town and also in the heart of the Mostar caršija, joining the two historic parts of the town divided by the waters of the Neretva. The caršija lies on both river banks connected by the famous bridge, bombed and now rebuilt.
A little history
The Neretva divides the town into two parts, the Muslim and the Croat. At present in Mostar Muslims and Croats live in two parallel worlds without their Serb fellow citizens who fled during the war. Before the conflict none of the three nationalities had a majority, but now the two identities differ in silence and, with their politicians caring little for the multicultural situation of the town, different curricula are used in the schools, contrasting interpretations of the same facts are taught and they like to think they even speak two different languages: Croatian, laced with Zagreb's radically purist reforms, and Bosnian, with Turkish and oriental influences often with dialect and archaic forms that are no longer in use. All in the name of keeping their identities separate.
Men from the local area try to make some quick cash from curious tourists by jumping from the bridge into the Neretva waters. Jumpers are a huge attraction in Mostar and there is even a local diving club, offering to teach any enthusiast to jump from the bridge for around €25 or €30. It is said that the tradition began just after its inauguration and since 1968 an annual diving tournament is held there. The games were suspended in 1994 after the destruction of the Old Bridge and resumed in 2004, when the new Old Bridge was opened.
But there's more to Mostar than the Stari Most. On the left bank of Neretva is located the old market – the Kujundziluk street, where you will meet both local handicraftsmen and traders offering virtually everything. It’s also where you’ll find loads of places to eat traditional cuisine, make yourself sick with baklava and take in the Balkan atmosphere!
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Back on track
Walking around the Old Town does incite a thirst that would be most logically quenched with a beverage of your choice. We chose to do so at a little hot spot known as the Black Dog Pub. Owned and run by a Canadian, it offers a comprehensive selection of local and European beers that are are extremely kind to the tastebuds and don’t leave you feeling too ill (if you’re like me and are kinda sensitive to beers). During the Summer is when the pub really shines. It regularly has live music during the evenings and the party shenanigans extend well into the mornings if that's your kind of cup of tea. It’s located just past the Stari Most and sits nestled above flowing waterfalls and trees that radiate all kinds of tranquil vibes.
D A Y 2
Now lets talk about this tour!
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After breakfast we all jumped into the tour van (after some dealings with trying to master the functionings of some not-so-adjustable back seats) and buckled up for the day ahead. Our first stop was not your usual tourist destination. The guide drove us to this bunker that was used during the civil war. A bunker so cleverly designed that even the locals who had lived here for their entire lives were completely unaware of its existence. The pilots who flew the aircrafts also resided in these bunkers and had a space where they bathed, ate and slept. It was extremely eerie to see a space that would have been home for these people a mere thirty years ago. It’s so surreal and knocks a big breath of perspective into your lungs. We really are so lucky to live in this world … even if complain about work, having to take the trash out, our amazon packages not coming in time and how ridiculously busy Sainsbury’s is on a Sunday at 3:30pm.
From there we then went to a village called Blagaj.
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Blagaj
Blagaj is a village-town very close to Mostar, most famous with its Dervish Monastery and being the source of Buna river. The ensemble of the Blagaj Tekke was presumably built very soon after Ottoman rule was established in Herzegovina, around 1520. The musafirhana (guest house) and türbe (mausoleum) are tucked into the natural surroundings, constituting a single entity with the cliffs, source of the Buna river and mills. The musafirhana of the Blagaj tekke and the türbe have been preserved to this day. The musafirhana was built before 1664, and rebuilt in 1851 – its original appearance is not known. It’s beauty is both natural and raw and the photos do not do it any justice (but I’ll include some because otherwise this post would be kinda lame and easily become part of your five servings of dull for the day).
Pocitelj
Pocitelj, often referred to as Bosnia and Herzegovina’s ‘open-air museum’, is a medieval walled village perched on a mountainside overlooking the Neretva River. It's location in a natural karst amphitheatre on the bank of the Neretva river is both stunning and strategic — throughout its long history of human settlement, Pocitelj was fortified and occupied by Bosnian, Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian forces. Eventually Pocitelj lost its military value and was largely abandoned. In a way, Pocitelj was a microcosm for what happened in the region in the 1990s. When war knocked on Pocitelj’s door in 1993, large portions of the complex became collateral damage in bombardments. Most of Pocitelj’s residents were displaced, and only a dozen or so families chose to return after the war had ended.
So even though Pocitelj may seem abandoned at first glance, it was amazing to see how many of the staircases actually led to heavy wooden doors concealing manicured gardens and private homes. Apparently around 800 people still live within the crumbling walls but you wouldn’t know it. The unique mix of medieval Hungarian and 18th century Turkish architecture has placed Pocitelj on the UNESCO tentative list.
And it’s easy to see why …
The most striking object in Pocitelj is the Sahat-kula, a silo-shaped fort that towers from the top of the hill above the town. It housed watchmen and military to guard against possible invasion from the Neretva Valley. Steep stairs lead up past an Ottoman-era hamam and mosque, then branch out in all directions. I guarantee you’ll get lost … but you will eventually find yourself … and if ever in doubt, then just head back down the hill and you’ll find your bearings. Here you can also sit down for a bosnian coffee at one of the cafes or grab some juicy fruit from one of the stalls near the car park. The cherries were the best I’ve ever eaten! And this is even after the disappointment of realising that cherries don’t taste anything like a cherry ripe…
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With bags of cherries and contentment, we hopped back into the van and made our way to our next destination: Kravice Waterfalls.
Kravice Waterfalls
Kravice was hands down the most beautiful place I have seen in a while. Reaching the marvellous waterfall cascade takes around 50 minutes driving from Mostar (but only 25 minutes from Pocitelj). The place is very busy in the summer because it offers great conditions for a weekend escape from the heat of the big city. It is perfect for sunbathing and swimming or just for a walk. Swimming under the waterfalls is officially allowed, however it is related to some adrenaline and some wild hairstyles. The water is SO cold and we couldn’t stand it for long… two minutes to be exact. Just enough time for a photo… because if you didn’t get the photo, did you really even jump in? You could spend a whole day at Kravice and you can have lunch or coffee in one of the many restaurants there or just sunbathe until your heart is content and skin is golden. The waterfalls themselves are reachable by 15-20-minute walk from the parking lot. You can walk down the stairs or take a ride with the tourist train car. The walk back up to parking lot has the lungs working overtime and high flow oxygen would be handy if you’ve got some up your sleeve. If not, just think of the ice cream waiting for you at the top of the hill … or just jump on the train!
Here's some handy hints if you're thinking of going to Kravice Falls:
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Getting there
I'll be honest with you, Kravice isn’t super easy to reach. Although it’s located close to Mostar, it’s almost impossible to get there unless you join a tour or have a car. But fret not, this shouldn’t hold you from going! These are your options: rent a car, join a tour or book a taxi. If you’re really desperate and want to save pennies, I guess you could probably catch a bus to Ljubuski or Citluk and then take a taxi to Kravice from these places.
Car rental
Renting a car is perhaps the easiest option but is not for everyone. Driving from Mostar to Kravice takes around one hour and involves mostly main roads. It also allows you to stop at various and wonderful places along the way. Parking at Kravice Falls is easy. There is a huge new parking lot and the parking fee is €1 only.
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Kravice Waterfall tour
Expect to pay €35 - €40 for a 6-hour tour. These are mostly group tours and you’ll obviously pay more for private tours. Basically you get dropped at the falls, provided with a few tips and then provided with a time to meet back up at the car park. I did my tour through Hostel Balkaneros which was € and included the other two places I had previously mentioned as well as a drive up to the Bosnian mountains towards the end of the day. I’m not sure if you have to be staying there in order to jump on a tour day seat so it’s worth sending an enquiry their way!
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Taxi
It all depends on your negotiation skills. Expect to pay anywhere from €70 - €100 for a full day in summer. Also, it might be tricky to get back to Mostar as taxis don’t frequent Kravice all that often. I have no real personal experience with taxis to and from the waterfalls but it doesn’t sound like the best idea unless there’s a group of you to split the cost and you pre-arrange a taxi to meet you once you’re done.
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Opening times Kravice Falls
Believe it or not but there are no opening and closing times for visiting the falls, they are accessible 24 hours. Entrance fee will only be collected between 8.00 and 20.00. Before and after there is free entrance!
Entrance to Kravice Falls
October - May: 6KM or €3
June & September: 8KM or €4
July & August: 10KM or €5
Boat trips
Wanna get up close with the waterfalls? Although I didn’t join the boat trip here, I’ve done it in Slovenia once and it was super fun and highly recommendable! The boat trip costs 10KM/€5 per person for 20 minutes or you can kayak for either: 10KM/€5 an hour, 5KM/€2.5 for 30 minutes or dive straight in to the deal pool for an entire day for 40KM/€20!
Eating and drinking
You’ll find two restaurants at Kravice waterfalls. They’re right next to the waterfalls so you’ll have an amazing view while you eat. They serve things like pizzas, eggs, coffee, beer and the prices are reasonable.
​The cherry on top of this amazing day DESSERT was 110% finishing OUR TOUR with a trip up the mountain RANGE that snuggles around Mostar.
Mostar mountains
Here we were retold first hand accounts of what it was like to live and experience the civil war some thirty years ago. Growing up in the 90s for me was listening to Spice Girls, playing with Barbie dolls and spending hours and hours having my hair twisted into a million plaits which gave you that hairstyle that looked as though you’d been electrocuted after shoving a knife into the toaster when it was still switched on at the wall. Little did I know that the 90s in what is now Bosnia & Herzegovina held a very different story for families and children like me clutched within the wicked grasp of war. Displacement, disorientation and death prevailed, as their lives were violently convulsed and changed forever.
Our guide told of us a time where his life was defined by insufficient food and water. A time where his home city was in ruins and scattered with army tanks. He recalls the last night he spent in his family home before fleeing for his and his family's safety. The Serbian forces were closing in and they had been advised by friends and neighbours that they would not survive the next day unless they escaped. They had to carefully crawl through the darkness in a single file without uttering a sound, to remain hidden and unheard by the surrounding snipers. And their refuge was no heaven: it was damp, sodden, smelly and rat infested. This is what their life and way of survival looked like for many years. His confronting stories exemplified their struggles and provided me with an appreciation of the devastation caused by the Yugoslav Wars.
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It goes to show that you can't choose where you are born. Sometimes you can't choose where you grow up or even choose the circumstances in which you grow up in. But you can choose the life you lead. And that's exactly what the people of Mostar have done since the war. It's so inspiring to see how strong the people of Mostar are to overcome such tragedy and it motivates me to make conscious choices for happiness. To stop putting things in the 'later bag' and start putting things into the 'do it now' agenda. I hope you've been inspired by the collaboration of some of my activities and find your way to Bosnia & Herzegovina in your however-near-is-possible-for-you future.
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Stay wild
Nat xx