Slovenia might be small but it definitely packs a punch!
Slovenia is one of the most underrated countries in all of Europe. Yep, I said it. And, if you have been there, then you know exactly what I am talking about. Slovenia is small enough that you can easily hire a car and explore the endless and wondrous realms of waterfalls, hikes and sunset spots at your leisure. But while it is small, it definitely doesn't comprimise on diversity and providing unlimited opportunities to see or experience something new. I have been to Slovenia twice in two years and it has become one of my favourite European locations.
There's heaps to do. HEAPS! It's kind of overwhelming when you first arrive because you just want to do everything. Suddenly your days are jam packed from dawn to dusk with all kinds of fun. And whilst that is good, you might be left with no time to actually sit back, kick your feet up and soak up the Slovenian rays. To help you out, I thought i'd share a few of my highlights and recommendations that I have picked up along my travels to:
1) give you some direction for your future plans,
2) help you minimise whatever adventure anxiety you may encounter, and
3) hopefully maximise the time you have in Slovenia!
First things first, it has the CUTEST capital city! (And if it’s cute, sign me up and serve me double!)
Ljubljana
Wander around
The gorgeous, cobbled part of the city is sandwiched between the imposing hill-top castle and the Ljubljanica river. It’s like someone decided it’d look real nice as a backdrop to a city and so built it. There are loads of restaurants, cafés and bars along the riverbanks, where you can sit and do some people watching. And I think we can all be in agreeance in saying that there’s really nothing better than sitting with a beer doing nothing but people watch and inadvertently tan on a sunny day.
Ljubljana is also strong on its bridge game. In front of the Franciscan church, there’s not one, not two, but three bridges. Together, they’re known as the Triple Bridge (makes sense I guess). Ljubljana’s main man, responsible for a lot of the great architecture, is Jože Plečnik. He is who we have to thank for the masterpiece that is the Triple Bridge. It was originally one main bridge but his endeavours to widen the bridge to allow for more traffic slowly became a greater project that incorporated two pedestrian bridges either side, a heap of pillars and a more aesthetically appealing end product.
Central market
Central Market is Ljubljana's larder and worth a trip to stock up on provisions or just have a good snoop (and sniff) around. The market, also designed by Plečnik, is mostly open air and has an array of local fruits and vegetables … as well as fresh milk … on tap. That’s right, milk out of a milk tap. Udderly ridiculous (sorry). It’s not advisable for those who are lactose intolerant (because the joke is on us in the form of cramps and a desperate need for a loo) but is a treat for lesser intolerant individuals who would froth on the novelty of filling a water bottle with freshly squeezed milk!
I recommend to first nosey around the vast open-air market (Tržnica na Prostem) just across Triple Bridge to the southeast of Prešernov trg on Vodnikov trg. Here you'll find a daily (except Sunday) farmers market. In the next neighbouring square – Pogačarjev trg – there are always stalls selling everything from foraged wild mushrooms and forest berries to honey and homemade cheeses.
MARKET MAP
Pogačarjev trg also hosts an organic market on Wednesdays and Sundays, and on Fridays from March to October it's the venue for Odprta Kuhna, a weekly food fair with local and international specialties cooked on-site from restaurants around the city and beyond.
Ljubljana castle
To get to Ljubljana castle, you must first conquer a sweaty hillside climb – especially if you happen to do the climb in Summer or Autumn (with one too many layers). The views are worth it though. You’ll be able to see golden rooftops, rows of trees and the winding river snaking its way through the charismatic curves of the town. You can even see the Kaminiske Alps in the distance if your eyesight is alright! You can then go inside and find out a little bit about the history and all that stuff if you’re feeling particularly school trip nostalgic.
Ljubljana
CASTLE
kranj
SKOFJA LOKA
LJUBLANA
KRANJ & SKOFJA LOKA
Personally I have only passed through these regions so don't have bucket loads of tips. Let's first start with Kranj and then we'll explore it's neighboring partner in crime, Skofja Loka (try saying that ten times fast haha).
Kranj is considered the capital of the Gorenjska region as well as the fourth largest city in Slovenia. The old town is protected as a cultural monument with its rich historical sites, including The Church of St. Cantius, Khislstein Castle, and the Ossuary, to name just a few. The greatest Slovenian poet France Prešeren is frequently associated with Kranj since it was his home in the final years of his life.
Skofja Loka is only a short distance away from Ljubljana. It’s full of history, gorgeous architecture, nature and hiking, a castle and top-notch museum, and a food and wine scene that’s renowned in Slovenia. We only stopped for a few hours but were totally obsessed with it. The first written records of Skofja Loka date to 1248. These records paint it as a bustling market town. Historically, Skofja Loka was enclosed by stone walls and could only be entered by way of one of five gated towers. Not much evidence of the fortifications remains today, but Skofja Loka still retains its original city plan: An Upper Square, the Plac, is separated from a Lower Square, the Lontrg, with the Old Town’s narrow alleys neatly contained, and the hilltop castle standing guard from atop a nearby hill.
Skofja Loka’s main tourist attractions include Loka Castle, its museum, and the historic Old Town. Considered one of the best-preserved medieval centres in Slovenia, Skofja Loka’s upper and lower squares were proclaimed a National Cultural Monument in 1987. The area is made up of churches and monasteries, school houses, and repurposed private residences connected by charming cobbled streets. The Capuchin Bridge, lovely semi-circular stone bridge, greets visitors as they cross the Sora river into town from Skofja Loka’s tiny bus station (picture).
We hired a car and could easily access Skofja Loka. But, fear not if you don’t have access to an automobile. Skofja Loka is easily reached via bus from Ljubljana. At 3.10 Euro per person one-way, bus is the cheapest and easiest way to go. Arriva, Slovenia’s most prominent transport company, runs frequent buses between Ljubljana and Skofja Loka on weekdays, and hourly services on weekends and holidays. Skofja Loka-bound buses depart from stand number 28 (in front of the ticket office) at the main bus station in Ljubljana, which is located next door to the train station. You can either pre-purchase a paper ticket from inside the office, or just pay the driver directly as you board (drivers carry change and also accept EFTPOS). The bus to with a toilet on-board and a luggage hold underneath.
how to fill your time
wander around
We were short on time so we just frolicked around the piazza. But, considering Skofja Loka’s relatively small size, its main piazza, Mestni trg, is huge. The open space is more of a rectangular shape than a square. The Mark of Mary, three statues and an alter sculpted in 1751 from local rock as a token of gratitude for surviving the Great Plague, sits on one side of the way. The perimeter is lined with historic buildings, the most striking of which is the 16th-century Old Town Hall, which features Baroque frescoes on its exterior.
At the southern end of the square, Zigon House, a former merchant’s mansion also from the 16th century, is noted for its stonework and vaulted archway. Further south in the narrowest part of the square, Martin House is one of the most distinct buildings in Skofja Loka. Built as an extension of the town wall in the 14th century, you can still see how the stonework melts into the house. It formed part of Skofja Loka’s defense, and once sat next to Poljane Gate and a guard tower. Other notable buildings on Mestni trg include the Old Parson’s House and Homan House.
ISN'T IT THE CUTEST!?
explore some more
Climb Hribec hill to the Church of St. Cross for the best views in town. Hribec hill rises 380m above Skofja Loka. The pilgrimage route from the foot of the hill to the Church of St. Cross is marked with the Stations of the Cross housed in coral-coloured alcoves. Like the church, these date back to the 18th century. The way up the hill is a steep but short climb up a gravel path. As you ascend, glorious views of Skofja Loka and the castle start to come into view.
BLED
kranj
SKOFJA LOKA
LJUBLANA
VINTGAR GORGE
LAKE BLED
There is no denying that Slovenia's epicentre is Lake Bled. It's deep, almost-photoshopped emerald waters are what most travellers gravitate towards, like fireflies flocking towards a flashing lightbulb in the midst of night. And for a very good reason. Honestly, it is like a postcard. But, in saying that, I am still amazed at how Lake Bled manages to preserve and radiate serenity and quietness unlike other capital hotspots like Paris, Rome and Berlin.
In the middle of the lake sits a fairytale island church called the Church of the Mother of God or Saint Mary's Church. It is a highly recognizable symbol that still houses fragments of frescoes with scenes from the life of the Virgin Mary: the story of Joachim and Anne on the north wall and the scene of Mary's visitation and other scenes from her adult life on the south wall. Experts are convinced that the softly painted images were influenced by graphic outlines from the workshop circle of Master Bolfgang and originate from around 1470. You can climb the 99 stone-step staircase to have a peek at one of the finest views of the lake and all it's lake dwelling canoes or traditional (pletna) boats that are filled with folk getting some exercise or snapping up some cute instagram shots.
There are many urban legends about the Bled island and its history, some of which also inspired the greatest Slovenian poet France Prešeren. However, one legend in particular is best known to everyone, the so-called legend of the sunken Bell. The legend of the sunken Bell speaks of the origin and preservation of the Bell and many visitors on Bled island ring the Bell in hope that their desires and wishes will be fulfilled. It is believed that the Bell brings good luck to everyone who rings it.
helpful information
Opening hours
May and September: 9:00 am to 7:00 pm
April and October: 9:00 am to 6:00 pm
November to March: 9:00 am to 4:00 pm
Entrance
Adults (€6), student (€4), child (€3) and families (€12 total)
The legend of the sunken Bell
Once an honourable man was killed by robbers and his body was thrown into Lake Bled. His grieving widow who lived in the castle near the lake, to honor her beloved husband, ordered a big bell to be made from all the gold and silver she owned. Unfortunately, due to ill fate, the new Bell never arrived to the island, as it sank along with a boat and all the men, while severe storms were creating big waves on the lake’s surface. Local residents in Bled say that they can still hear the Bell, with voices rising from the depths of the lake.
After this accident, the desperate young widow sold all her possessions and left to the monastery in Rome. After her death, the Pope instructed to build a new Bell, which he dedicated to the young widow from Bled. The Pope sent the Bell to the Bled island, where it still stands today, near the St. Mary’s Church. Those who ring the Bell and announce their wish to the beloved Lake Bled widow are thought to have the opportunity to be heard and their wishes fulfilled.
Birds eye views of the lake
The classic viewpoint of Bled can be found after a slight hike up Ojstrica hill situated south-west of Lake Bled. Although not overly difficult, the Ojstrica hill is 610 meters high and involves a mud or dirt path. If the weather has been rainy – it can get quite slippery and dirty. You should definitely wear trainers (i.e. sneakers) up this path, and be prepared to get a little muddy if it has been raining. But the view is definitely worth it! The actual hike is a little tricky to find and not signposted very well ... so make sure you pop it into google or apple maps before you venture off!
p.p.s: If you are feeling particularly able and/or adventurous, there is a second, even higher peak that you can hike up to. The view might not be as good or as clear to Lake Bled, but Velika Osojinica is even higher at 756 metres above sea level.
@sunrise
p.s: I did the trek my way up to Ojstrica for sunrise early one morning when we were staying around Bled (pictured bottom left). The early wake up call is hard but Mother Nature does provide a shiny reward in the shape of the sun ;)
Walking around the lake
Lake Bled is not that big. You can easily walk around the perimeter at a leisurely pace in two hours. It’s the best way to get a complete view of Lake Bled and take some awesome shots. The northern part of the walk is less photogenic since it’s more covered by the trees, but as you round the western side, the view gets better as the island is closer to the western shore. You will go past the rowing club, which has several piers jutting out making for great photo opportunities.
Festivals @ Lake Bled
Apparently when you visit Lake Bled in the Summer, you have to experience three things: a ride in a “pletna” boat on the lake, the flavour of the Cream Cake, and the Okarina Festival. Since 1991, this world music festival has been making sure that the idyllic surroundings of Lake Bled are accompanied by the sounds of magical flutes, the unusual rhythms of exotic percussion instruments, violins that are unfamiliar with classical notes, or oriental instruments with names that are hard to pronounce. These sounds are joined by voices singing in languages from all over the globe. Unfortunately, our fleeting visit didn't permit such grooving, but I have heard it is well worth it if you're up for a good time! Here's the website if you want more details: https://www.festival-okarina.si/en/
ALSO! During my second visit to Lake Bled we stumbled upon the CUTEST guy with his watercolour paints and prints. He was perched on a wall overlooking the very paintable and picturesque Bled, saying 'five euros' and pointing to these prints on nature's make-shift wall to many passerby's that were ignoring him as they strolled by in their tourist bubble. My friends and I stopped and had a look at his prints and my friend brought one for the advertised five euros. Before we could get away though, the artist guy grabbed the card and gestured for us to stand still whilst he did a portrait of us three. And his talent is seriously underrated and undervalued. His work is worth much more than five measly euros! Here's a few snaps of his work that he swirled together in a few short minutes!
VINTGAR GORGE
Vintgar Gorge is only a ten minute drive from Lake Bled. It is a 1.6 km long gorge located in Triglav National Park. Boardwalks crisscross their way through the gorge, creating an enchanting landscape that is photogenic and fun to explore. This is one of Slovenia’s most popular spots to visit so it gets to be very crowded midday. For the best experience, plan on getting there just before opening time. Even if you arrive just one hour later, the boardwalks will be packed with people, making it more like a packed sardine sandwich rather than an enjoyable experience.
Also, it’s good to know that you have to pay an entrance fee to the park and opening/closing times are slightly different depending on the month. Overall, I think the boardwalks are easy to walk on and I’d say this trek as a whole is suited to most physical capabilities.
helpful information
Parking
Cars: €5
Campervans: €10
Opening hours
April/May: 8:00 am to 6:00 pm
June: 8:00 am to 7:00 pm
July/August: 8:00 am to 8:00 pm
September: 8:00 am to 7:00 pm
October/November: 9:00 am to 4:00 pm
Entrance
Adults (€10), students (€6), children between 6-15 years (€5) and children under 6 years (€1)
BLED
VINTGAR GORGE
kranj
SKOFJA LOKA
BOHINJ
LJUBLANA
LAKE BOHINJ
On my second visit to Slovenia, my friends and I decided to first hire a car in Croatia and drive over to Slovenia on a mini sort of Balkan roadtrip. At the border we were questioned by a lady police officer about our origins, intentions and declarations. And when I say questioned, what I really mean is that we had the most warm and welcoming introduction to Slovenia you could imagine ... ending with the polite, albiet a little persistent, recommendation to visit Lake Bohinj during our stay and a friendly 'see you in a few days' or 'se vidimo čez nekaj dni'.
Lake Bohinj, also called Bohinjsko jezero, is located in Triglav National Park. It is the largest permanent lake in Slovenia. There is another lake that is larger (Lake Cerknica), but it is a seasonal lake that tends to dry up and go into hiding during the summer months. Slovenia's largest lake is a mere thirty minute drive from Lake Bled. Though its air of peace and serenity could not be any more different from the hustle and bustle of its more popular counterpart. It's brooding. Eerily mystical. And its enchanting feels are encouraged by the steep mountain faces that rise out of the lake on the northern side, with mountain peaks also dominating the background to the west and south.
Unfortunately we didn't get to make it to Lake Bohinj (insert sad face) due to a series of mistimed events and unplanned roadworks. And luckily for us, the 'see Lake Bohinj' order we received from the border officer was not legally enforcable and our poor time management and indecisiveness did not lead to us being unduly reprimanded and imprisoned. I have done a little digging on the world wide web with my keyboard and mouse spades and put together a list that will keep you entertained if you visit. Actually, it was during the process of making this list that I realised that I have just lied to you and have done some of the things on offer around Lake Bohinj during my visits to Slovenia. I'll add some of this firsthand information where I can in the sections below!
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See the iconic view of the St. John the Baptist Church and the stone bridge (I didn't do this but ...)
This postcard-worthy church and bell tower dates back at least 700 years and is what every medieval church should be: small, surrounded by natural beauty and full of exquisite frescoes. The nave is Romanesque, but the Gothic presbytery dates from about 1440. Many walls and ceilings are covered with 15th- and 16th-century frescoes. And it is these frescoes that steal the show, featuring among them a multi-layered depiction of St Christopher and a representation of Cain and Abel, complete with rare white devils.
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Stand up paddle board or kayak on the lake
So researching this activity gave me serious fomo (fear of missing out) and nearly made me reach for my bank card to book another flight to Slovenia. Lake Bohinj is a true lake for all seasons, offering a plethora of outdoor activities all year round. In summer, the water temperature reaches 72°F (22°C), inviting swimmers, divers, kayakers, windsurfers & fishermen. In winter, ice skaters carve paths across the frozen lake while skiers & snowboarders shred the Slovenian slopes.
There's stand up paddle boarding (SUP) tours you can do around Lake Bohinj and they look like bundles of fun! There's heaps of companies that offer SUP around this area, with options for privates or groups, full or half days, with or without lunch, transfers and also options that include a glacier valley hike (who doesn't love that!?). The best one I found was with a company called BANANAWAY - aside from it's groovy choice of name, it seemed to have the best price and flexibility in comparison to other tours. They also do SUP around Ljubljana, Lake Bled, Soca Valley and Piran. Here's their website if you're interested: https://www.bananaway.eu/sup-tours-slovenia/
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Walk the trail around Lake Bohinj and see the statue of Goldhorn
THE LEGEND OF THE GOLDHORN (ZLAtorog)
The undisputed symbol of Lake Bohinj is the statue of Goldhorn (Zlatorog, in Slovene), an ancient protector of the Triglav Valley. His golden horns are said to hold the key to a treasure hidden in the surrounding mountains, and his blood is said to bloom magical flowers with healing powers.
The legend goes back hundreds of years and involves a hunter, a rich Venetian merchant, and a local beauty: the object of both men’s affection. Goldhorn gets caught in the middle of this love triangle and is shot by the hunter. Fortunately, he survives, after eating flowers birthed of his own blood. But sadly, the hunter dies, the girl cries, and Goldhorn goes on a rampage through the valley. Today, Goldhorn’s legacy lives on through the telling of this story and the lakefront statue that commemorates him.
SAVICA WATERFALL
Savica is very unique among world waterfalls – its watercourse is divided into two parts in the hidden undergrounds. Mysterious in its duality. Praised in Slovenian poetry. Mystical. Mesmerising. The famous A-shaped waterfall normally comes into sight at an altitude of 836 m and is 78 m high. It is fed by the waters from the Valley of the Triglav Lakes and Pršivec that flow to it through a horizontal cave tunnel. Unlike me and my trusting google maps mentality, I recommend reaching Savica using one of the methods I have l have listed below... unless you really like climbing mountains and getting stuck in a dense forest pickle.
finding Savica waterfall
You can reach Savica Waterfall in a few ways:
Walk starting from the mountain lodge Koča pri Savici
- Search either Koča pri Savici or Slap Savica on your GPS
- Just beyond the parking lot, a small brown hut serves as the hike’s entry point (fee is 3€ for adults and €1.50 for children).
- After entering, cross the stone bridge and begin climbing the stone staircase that zig-zags up the mountain. You can easily reach the top in 15-20 minutes.
- It’s roughly 553 steps to the top, and there are several benches along the way if you need to stop & rest. There's also a place called Savica hut that reveals some unreal views for the eyes!
- I recommend wearing athletic shoes that won’t slip on the stone steps.
- Bring a bottle of water and a camera. You won’t need much else!
Take a bus to the parking place below the waterfall
Just a little note to say that buses go to the parking during Summer months only. In other seasons, the drive takes you to the village of Ukanc every day (*regular buses drive to Ukanc from Bohinjska Bistrica, Bled and Ljubljana). If you decide to walk from Ukanc, here's some directions:
- Starting from Bohinj Ukanc bus stop, follow the asphalt road from the bus stop to the bridge over the crystal clear Savica.
- After the bridge, turn left towards the part of the valley, which is encolsed on one side by the mighty Komarca rock wall.
- Initially the trail is surrounded by meadows and, once you reach the stone road, you will mostly walk through the forest.
- After approximately 45 minutes you will come to a bridge over Mala and Velika Savica. An alpine hut is located nearby.
- There you start ascending to the waterfall. This should take approximatey 20 minutes. You have to walk up 553 steps so pace yourself!
- This is the where this walk matches the one I outlined above and you will come to a small shed where you can view the waterfall.
- Follow the path as above and then use the same way for your return to Ukanc bus stop. Easy!
VOGEL CABLE CAR
BLED
kranj
SKOFJA LOKA
BOHINJ
TRIGLAV NATIONAL PARK
LJUBLANA
In winter, Triglav National Park is home to one of Slovenia’s largest ski resorts. The Vogel Ski Centre lies on a high plateau on Mount Vogel overlooking Lake Bohinj and the Bohinj valleys. It’s reached by cable car from the edge of the lake. This cable car takes you up to 1,535 metres so you can enjoy spectacular views of the mountains. Its popularity starts in the winter and extends right through to the summer as the views are simply phenomenal. I personally didn’t do the cable car but we did do a hike around this area so will include that a little later on. I think it does serve as an ideal way for those who can't hike the elevation to enjoy both the views of plethora of trails at the top of Vogel though. I've found some more information online on hikes you can lose yourself on here http://www.vogel.si/summer/vogel/hiking-trails/ and I have popped some other helpful information in below for your eyes scroll through!
MOSTNICA GORGE
Apparently, the best place to start your exploration of Mostnica Gorge is in the Stara Fuzina village. From there you pass the Zois’ mansion right up to Devil’s Bridge. And it is not far from this bridge where the trailhead that leads through a forest and encompasses beautiful gorge begins. Make sure you keep an eye out for a hollow rock which called the “Little Elephant”.
It’s a lovely, breathtaking walk through the forest, while you admire the emerald green water, lush leaves and soothing sounds of waterfalls around you. Words cannot describe this, really. It’s a photography enthusiast’s paradise. Unlike the much more famous Vintgar gorge, it is a natural walk without the wood walkways and the crowds of tourists walking on them. At the end of the gorge, there is a short up-hill path which takes you to the restaurant, where you can enjoy a wonderful view and awesome homemade food. The hike takes about one and a half hours and i'd say it's a fun little activity for a pretty nominal entrance fee (I think it was around €2) and suitable for dogs and peoples of all ages!
Mostnica Gorge address
(might come in handy)
Stara Fuzina 217, 4265 Bohinjsko jezero, Slovenia
helpful information for cable car
Opening hours
The cable car operates every half hour and opening and closing times differ throughout the seasons
WINTER: 8:00 am to 6:00 pm
OFF SEASON: 8:00 am to 4:00 pm
SUMMER: 7:30 am to 7:00 pm
Parking
The parking spaces next to the lower cable car station are free of charge.
Entrance
Return: adults (€15) & children (€8)
Single journey: adults (€11) & children (€6)
TRIGLAV NATIONAL PARK
A part of Bohinj is also a part of Triglav National Park. The region and the park basically overlap in the Lake Bohinj area. Triglav National Park is Slovenia’s only national park, but what a park it is! It comprises Mount Triglav, the tallest mountain in the country and the national symbol. This three-peaked mountain is featured prominently on the Slovenian coat of arms and also on the Slovenian flag! It is said that every Slovene has to climb Mount Triglav at least once in their lifetime (and I can see they take this very seriously!)
My encounters with keen Slovenian hiking families made it clear in my mind that Slovenes are the craziest and fittest human beings that roam this earth. Like if your idea of a family fun-filled holiday includes carrying one of your kids in a tent backpack on your back and the other in a sling strapped to your front up a steep mountain side then the Julian Alps is your slice of paradise pie.
There are actually tonnes of hiking trails in Triglav National Park. If you’re limited in terms of time and eager for a great experience, I recommend driving to the top of the Vršič Pass and going hiking from there. The drive lops off a lot of elevation gain so you can get those high mountain views without a lot of climbing… just invest in some anti-sickness tablets first if driving around hairpin bends isn't your thing.
On my first visit to Slovenia, we did a great 5-mile hike from the Vršič Pass to Sleme & Slemonova Spica that I highly recommend. On this hike, enjoy amazing views of the Julian Alps, hike through flower-filled valley, and on a clear day, look out over Austria and Italy. This is a great way to get a taste of the Julian Alps without doing a huge day hike or needing special equipment. It’s also crazy that these trails are often deserted and you feel like you have the the whole place trail to yourself! Here’s some info and snaps from my first visit to Vrsic Pass.
VRSIC PASS
Getting to the trailhead
The trail starts at the top of the Vršič Pass. There are small parking lots at the pass but you would normally need to get here early in the morning in order to snag yourself a spot. If they are all taken, there is plenty of room to park on the shoulder of the road and further down the pass.
The morning of the day we chose to tackle Vršič Pass was particularly miserable. It was windy, rainy and you couldn’t see much else but angry, grey clouds. This meant that most normal, sane minded people were deterred from the trek and we had no problem picking a car spot. The trailhead is located at the top of the pass opposite the main parking lot. Look for the large Vršič Pass sign. Just a short distance away is the trailhead. Look for a red sign that points towards Slemenova Špica and Mala Mojstrovka and then follow the trail uphill through the low spruce forest.
SLEME & SLEMONOVA SPICA
Distance: 7.5 km (4.66 miles) round trip
Elevation Gain: 550 meters (1800 feet)
Difficulty: Easy to moderate
Length of Time: 3 to 4 hours
When to go: June through September
some killer views
Vractica saddle
The trail steadily climbs up through a short, shrubby spruce forest. It’s a moderate climb and it takes 30 to 40 minutes to hike from the Vršič Pass to the Vratica Saddle. This is one of the most challenging (and boring) sections of the hike. We honestly nearly turned back here and contemplated replacing our attempts with a much more appealing pub hopping day. But, if you persevere, you get one of the best views of the hike from the top of the saddle. This is where things started looking up and the sky started to clear. Hallelujah!
To continue out to Sleme and Slemenova Špica, take the trail to the right. Keep following the sign towards Slemenova Špica. The trail to the left takes hikers up to Mala Mojstrovka. This hike ascends into the jagged peaks so you will need a harness and helmet if you go this way.
Slemonova Spica
From the trail junction at the Vratica Saddle, follow the trail to the right. Briefly, the path descends as you walk from one peak to another. It’s quiet and peaceful back in here and the changing views are one of the things that make this hike so enjoyable. Then you arrive at a stunning viewpoint. From here, you can look out to Italy and Austria.
The trail climbs one more time to get to the top of Slemenova Špica. Near the summit, there is a small field that is a popular place to find some shade under a tree and have a picnic. First, hike to the top of Slemenova Špica, enjoy the views, and take your photos. On your way back down, find a nice shady spot and have a picnic or a snack.
And then you go the same way back! Unless you fancied venturing along the gravelly slopes of Mala Mojstrovka… I didn’t do this so you might have to do your own research sorry!
BLED
VINTGAR GORGE
kranj
SKOFJA LOKA
BOHINJ
TRIGLAV NATIONAL PARK
lake jasna
LJUBLANA
lake jasna
A swift 22-ish minute drive from Vršič is a place called Lake Jasna. You can’t miss the striking green of the glacier lake in the midst of mountains ... and the crowds of people in bathers holding ice creams and looking like they're living the ideal life. The lake is guarded by a statue of Zlatorog, the legendary mountain goat of Mt. Triglav I mentioned above. It’s worth the time to get out of the car and walk around the lake and maybe grab an ice cream yourself if the season permits! Or, if you've got a little more time to play with, a day at the lake would be perfect too!
SOCA VALLEY
From the top of the Vršič Pass, past Lake Jasna, drive down the Trenta side towards the town of Bovec. It doesn’t take long until the road runs alongside the Soča Valley. Before you get to Bovec, there are two fantastic places to stop and enjoy a view of this dazzling river.
the best views of Soča (in my humble opinion)
At this spot, there are two campgrounds along the Soča River called Kamp Korita and Kamp Jelinc. What makes these places so special is that you can walk along a section of the river. It’s a beautiful place and normally it is really quiet and void of crowds… however, our visit coincided with a film set and loads of crews hustling and bustling around and putting up red tape that prohibited entry to the walk in its entirity. There was still heaps of people in the water, frolicking in the glacier like liquid and soaking up some vitamin sunshine, and we did manage to sneak across a bridge to get some views from the other side despite this hollywood inconvenience!
The River Soča, which has a distinct emerald green colour, is considered to be one of the most beautiful rivers in Europe. Its water flows across waterfalls, small waterfalls, and cascades as well as through narrow rocky gorges, and along the way it has carved surprising canyons and pools. The river and its tributaries excite the lovers of natural beauty and seekers of adventurous water sports, such as wildwater kayaking, rafting, canyoning and everything in between. It is literally an explosion of adrenaline-packed outdoor attractions. It’s also home to a renowned fish known (unoriginally) as the Soča trout. Fly fisherman from all over the world come to these waters to try their luck at catching this illusive and slippery creature. Whilst others, like me, just come to catch up on some adventures and instagram shots ;)
activities in & around Soča
Like I said, there is HEAPS to do in the Soča area. But before I get to this, let me introduce …
BOVEC
Bovec is a small town surrounded by the pristine nature of the Julian Alps and emerald Soča river. In the summer months, it comes alive as a real mecca for outdoor sports and, in the winter, transforms into a paradise for skiers, with the highest ski resort in Slovenia. We accidentally stumbled upon it on our first trip to Slovenia and I instantly fell in love with it and knew I had to come back when I returned to Slovenia. And that's exactly what I did. We stayed at a place called Hostel Soča Rocks during our second trip to Slovenia. It's a hostel just off the main section that offers reasonably priced beds, a self-catering kitchen, a groovy bar, buffet breakfast for a fee and heaps of local knowledge about the area and things you can do! There's a tonne of agencies in the town that offer the same information as well, but it was just easier to get it all in one place (and plus you get a discount if you're staying at the hostel and book some tours with them).
Here's an idea of some of the activities you can do:
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Zip lining
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Climbing
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Paragliding
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Skydiving
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Kayaking
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White water rafting
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Caving
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Mountain biking
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Adventure parks
heading to the main part of town
Besides adrenaline activities, there are also many natural beauties to visit here. One is the magical waterfall Virje and is a great target for a short hike. Another is Kluze Foretresses that hides a lot of history secrecies. Nearby is the highest slovenian road, going to the Mangart sadle. The breathtaking view on the peaks of the Julian Alps is guaranteed to inspire you. From the saddle, it is only 2.5 hours hike to the top of the Mangart mountain, the 4th highest mountain in Slovenia. The hike is short but technically not that easy, so you will need mountain equipment and some sturdy boots! We were recommended this hike by a few girls staying in the hostel but we didn't get the chance to do it unfortunately. They seemed pretty stoked about it so I can only recommend it based on their level of excitement!
WATERFALL VIRJE
Slap Virje is a Karstic waterfall and the flow of the water can fluctuate depending on rainfall. The source of the waterfall lies a little bit upstream at the spring of Glijun (Izvir Glijuna) on an altitude of 430 meters. The best time to visit Slap Virje is after heavy rainfall or late springtime when there is a lot of melted snow in springtime. But be warned, it is FREEZING cold! You can park at the top in some designated spaces and walk downhill to the waterfall, letting the thud of the water droplets be your guide!
sunrise run views
BLED
VINTGAR GORGE
kranj
SKOFJA LOKA
BOHINJ
TRIGLAV NATIONAL PARK
lake jasna
BOVEC
SOCA VALLEY
LJUBLANA
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Also, while we are on the topic of waterfalls, you have to check out Slap (Slovene translation for waterfall) Kozjak and Slap Boka. Slap Boka is close to Bovec and is one of the highest waterfalls in Slovenia while Slap Kozjak is located a little south of Kobarid and is worthy of the most gorgeous waterfall award in my opinion. For this reason, it deserves its own little section so I’ll talk about it in a momento! In terms of Boka, you have one of three options: 1. Stop near the bridge along the road and admire it from the roadside (you’ll understand once you see it) 2. Take a 15 minute walk to the viewing platform to see kinda the same view (just a little closer) or 3. Walk 1.5 hours to get close to the waterfall and see it in its full glory.
SLAP KOZJAK
I digress to bring you a gem of the Balkans: Slap Kozjak. Also, just quickly, the drive from Bovec to Slap Kozjak incorporates Slap Boka so you can kill two waterfall birds with one stone!
Slap Kozjak is made spectacular by its increasingly narrow walls, stunning rocky amphitheatre and beautiful waterfall with its ever-so-inviting pool at the end.
here’s some directions to get there:
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From the centre of Kobarid go in direction of Drežnica village.
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Cross the Soča river over Napoleon bridge and turn left. Soon you will come to a big parking lot on your right just in front of Camp Koren.
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Just above Camp Koren you will spot a signpost for Kozjak waterfall which directs you to the left. A dirt road (closed for traffic) will take you across the meadow and bring you to the turquoise Soča river.
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Follow a nice marked trail and you can also make a short detour to the right and visit remains of the bunkers from the 1st world war.
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A neat and popular trail will bring you to the spectacular Great Kozjak waterfall!
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The whole walk is about 3km and it’ll take you about one hour. And the best thing, it’s free!
BLED
VINTGAR GORGE
kranj
SKOFJA LOKA
BOHINJ
TRIGLAV NATIONAL PARK
lake jasna
BOVEC
SOCA VALLEY
KOBARID
LJUBLANA
KOBARID
You wouldn’t think it but World War saw Kobarid immersed in enormous bloodshed and human torment. Kobarid catapulted onto the map with the Battle of Kobarid (Battle of Caporetto), or the Twelfth Battle of the Isonzo, which took place in October 1917. In the Battle of Caporetto, German reinforcements helped Austria-Hungary win a decisive victory against the Italians. The Kobarid Museum presents this military history from a human perspective. War and warfare aren’t glorified. Instead, facts are showcased along with diary entries and black and white photographs displaying the brutal and violent aftermath of war. It’s difficult to imagine that the peaceful Soča valley and Julian Alps were the backdrops of such a violent episode in our world history.
helpful information
The museum is open every day
Opening hours
April - September: 9:00 am to 6:00 pm
October-March: 10:00 am to 5:00 pm
Entrance
Adults (€7) and children & seniors (€5)
But onto lighter subjects, let’s talk cheese! You have to try the Tolminc cheese! Tolminc cheese is a cow’s milk cheese made in the Soča Valley and protected by European designation of origin. For centuries, people in the Soča Valley have been making cheese and using it as a means of payment (works for me). Written sources from the 13th-century indicate that this cheese was used as payment for fishing rights. In the summer, it’s possible to purchase local cheese directly from farmers in the mountain pastures and you can even learn more about cheesemaking in this region at the Planika Cheese Factory.
There’s heaps more to do in Kobarid. Like hikes, foodie experiences, paragliding, parachuting … you simply have to google it to find out for yourself!
BLED
VINTGAR GORGE
kranj
SKOFJA LOKA
BOHINJ
TRIGLAV NATIONAL PARK
lake jasna
BOVEC
SOCA VALLEY
KOBARID
PREDJAMA
postojna caves
LJUBLANA
PREDJAMA CASTLE
Predjama Castle is one of Europe's most dramatic castles. It teaches a clear lesson: if you want to build an impregnable fortification, put it in the gaping mouth of a cave halfway up a 123 metre cliff. Its four storeys were puzzled together piece by piece over the years from the 1200s, but most of what you see today is from the 16th century. Predjama Castle was first attested in 1274, the year it was built, in the Gothic style, by the Patriarch of Aquileia. It was later rebuilt by its new owners, the Luegg family, whose most notorious member was Erasmus of Predjama. Its unique situation halfway up a cliff offers a unique insight into the construction techniques and inventiveness of its medieval builders in their desire to build a safe refuge by the entrance to the cave. It looks simply unconquerable and downright instagrammable.
It is possible to see the castle all year round! The entrance fee for adults is €11.90, €9.5 for students, €7.10 for children up to age of fifteen and €1 for children below the age of five years. An audioguide (available in 15 languages) details the site's highlights and history. The castle has great features for folk of any age – holes in the ceiling of the entrance tower for pouring boiling oil on intruders, a very dank dungeon, a 16th-century chest full of treasure (unearthed in the cellar in 1991), and an eerie-like hiding place at the top called Erazem's Nook, named for Erazem (Erasmus) Lueger.
Lueger was a 15th-century robber-baron who, like Robin Hood, stole from the rich to give to the poor. During the wars between the Hungarians and the Austrians, Erazem supported the former. He hid himself up in Predjama Castle and continued his daring deeds with the help of a secret passage that led out from behind the rock wall. In 1484 the Austrian army besieged the castle, but it proved impregnable. Erazem mocked his attackers, even showering them with fresh cherries to prove his comfortable situation. But the Austrians had the last laugh – finally hitting him with a cannonball as he sat on the toilet. An ignoble fate for a dashing character.
POSTOJNA CAVES
Postojna Cave is open daily, including on public holidays. The cave tour, which includes a cave train ride and a walk along an easy footpath, takes an hour and a half. Each Postojna Cave tour is accompanied by tour guides, who provide visitors with tour commentary in Slovenian, Italian, English or German, presenting the cave's splendours in detail. Visitors can also use audio guides available in no fewer than 17 languages. Cave tours are suitable for all visitors, including families with young children and visitors with mobility impairments. The temperature inside the cave is constant throughout the year (10°C), so warm clothing and sports footwear are recommended.
I copy and pasted the above snippet from the official Postojna Cave website so it does have some merit. Unfortunately we didn't have time to do the caves the first time I went to Slovenia. But then I was astounded by how expensive they were the second time I visited and decided that my euros were better spent elsewhere (like wine and Slovenian chocolate). I'm sure they are amazing but I am all for avoiding tourist traps and things that have been hijacked by the tourist industry.
BLED
VINTGAR GORGE
kranj
SKOFJA LOKA
BOHINJ
TRIGLAV NATIONAL PARK
lake jasna
BOVEC
SOCA VALLEY
LJUBLANA
PIRAN
KOBARID
PREDJAMA
postojna caves
PIRAN
Just when I thought Slovenia couldn’t get any better, it serves up a place with Venetian style palazzos lining its streets, fresh sea breezes and salty seas to rejuvenate my muscles after many walks and waterfalls. Piran reminded me of a less touristy version of Venice. A Mediterranean-like place where you could stay forever if you could… unluckily for us though, we only had a few sweet hours up our sleeve to spare.
In those hours we wandered down the narrow cobbled remains of the medieval old town of Piran and eventually stumbled upon Maj trg – First of May Square. In the oldest part of the city, founded by Romans, this small square is home to several ornate statues and fountains fed by drain pipes. Named for Piran’s famous violinist Giuseppe Tartini (1692 – 1770) this elegant square is the centre piece of life in Piran. Lined with cafes, restaurants and official buildings, children run free in the huge open space under the gaze of Tartini himself.
After collecting some gelato (another Italian treat), we then strolled very leisurely along the harbour and out along the Piran peninsular. We went for the compulsory seaside dip and then rewarded ourselves with more gelato (because why not?)
And on that note, I’m off to book some sneaky flights to Slovenia and grab some more gelato… (kinda wish I wasn't half kidding).
I just wanted to finish by saying that Slovenia is massive and I could have wrote essays more ... but then you probably wouldn't be reading this right now. I hope my experiences have provided you with a taste test of what's on offer and help you sculpt together your own Slovenian adventure of a lifetime!
Stay wild,
Nat xx